Chasing the Leopard’s Grace
Yala National Park 2024
A two-day expedition through 30,000 acres of forest, showcasing the incredible species encountered while searching for leopards.
The trip started with a sudden decision to head to Sri Lanka. In less than two weeks, my professor and I planned everything, unsure if it would even be possible, but we somehow managed to make it work.
Our journey began with a 5 hour flight, followed by a 4 hour drive from Colombo to Kataragama, a town near Yala National Park. The long travel time left us exhausted, and we checked into our hotel around 5 a.m. After leaving our luggage in the room, we jumped straight into the jeep waiting outside.
On our first day, we headed straight into Yala and visited blocks 1 and 2 of the park.. Each day began with the jeep picking us up at 5 a.m., and we returned to the hotel by 7 p.m. The adventure had officially begun.
Block 1 of Yala National Park covers around 141 square kilometers and is known for its high density of leopards. It is home to a variety of wildlife, including elephants, sloth bears, spotted deer, wild boars, and crocodiles. The area also hosts over 200 bird species, such as painted storks, flamingos, and pelicans, making it a great spot for birdwatching. The landscape features a mix of dry thorn forests, grasslands, lagoons, and waterholes, providing habitats for many animals.
The first species we spotted was the Asian Green Bee-Eater. It was perched gracefully on a small branch, perfectly positioned to showcase its vibrant colors and intricate details.
While exploring the forest in search of leopard tracks, we witnessed some fascinating scenes. A Painted Stork was busy catching its food, a Peacock dazzled us with its vibrant colors, and a herd of buffaloes rested peacefully in a pond.
Painted Stork live in shallow water areas like lakes, marshes, and ponds, where they hunt for fish, frogs, and insects. In Sri Lanka, they can be seen in national parks like Yala and Wilpattu, as well as in protected wetlands. Painted Storks often live in groups and build nests in tall trees close to water. Their numbers in Sri Lanka are stable, but they face risks from habitat loss and climate change.
Peacocks are omnivores, feeding on seeds, fruits, insects, and small reptiles. In Sri Lanka, the peacock holds cultural significance and is considered a symbol of grace and beauty. Though their numbers are stable, they face challenges like habitat destruction and human-wildlife conflict.
Buffaloes are essential to the agricultural economy of Sri Lanka, often used for plowing fields and transporting goods. Their presence in ponds also contributes to the local ecosystem, as they create wetland habitats for various species of birds, fish, and other wildlife.
Our first clue of a leopard's presence in the dense forest was its footprints and fresh droppings
Tracking the footprints didn’t help much as the tracks led into the bushes. However, not long after, our driver spotted the leopard in the distance. It wasn’t easy to spot with the naked eye as well as the telephoto lens.
We moved ahead, continuing our search for a closer shot of the leopard. Along the way, the forest revealed more of its secrets.
Crested Serpent Eagle
The Crested Serpent Eagle prefers to perch on high trees to scan for prey and is often seen soaring in the sky.
These eagles are not migratory, staying within their range year-round. They are also known for their loud, harsh call that echoes through the forest. Though not globally threatened, habitat loss and hunting pose a risk to their populations in some areas.
The Land Monitor Lizard
The Land Monitor Lizard is one of the largest reptiles found in Sri Lanka. Known for its keen senses, especially smell, it plays an important role in the ecosystem by controlling pest populations and cleaning up carcasses. Though not endangered, land monitors face threats from habitat loss and hunting.
Spotted Deer
While exploring the forest, we came across this spotted deer standing still, looking straight at us, and the way it stared in the environment felt so calm and peaceful.
Giants of the Park
We waited in the jeep just fifteen meters away, watching as the elephants calmly walked towards the pond. The largest one likely the leader and the mother, led the way while the smaller ones followed closely behind.
Sri Lankan elephants are smaller than African elephants but play a crucial role in the forest ecosystem. They eat plants and fruits, and their dung helps spread seeds, allowing new trees to grow. As they move, they break branches and create paths, which lets sunlight reach the forest floor. During dry seasons, they dig for water, providing access to other animals as well. These elephants are essential for keeping the forest healthy and thriving.
Close Call!
Tracking lepords in 30,000 acres of forest. We stopped by a lake, hoping to catch a glimpse of the big cat. After an hour, the sounds in the bushes started to fade. Time passed and suddenly out of no where, a deer jumped out of the bushes and into the lake. But its trouble weren’t over. Deer faces another challenge as the crocodile starts chasing him. Luckily it survived. We think it might been running from a leopard. Eight hours later we still haven’t seen the leopard
First Sight
As our day was coming to a close, we caught sight of a leopard gracefully moving through the bushes. Acting quickly, we maneuvered our jeep closer for a better view and a chance to capture the moment. The encounter was brief, lasting no more than 20 seconds, as the leopard vanished back into the dense foliage.
Day 2 began with an adventure through Blocks 3 and 5. The morning brought unexpected rain, forcing us to pause and wait for it to pass before continuing our journey. The rain lowered our chances of spotting a leopard, but we kept our hopes high and pressed on. Despite the weather, the day turned out to be remarkable as we witnessed some truly incredible moments in the wild.
It had rained throughout the night, leaving the forest fresh and alive. As we started our day, we came across our first sign of the leopard. But this time, it wasn’t just tracks, we could also smell the remains of a meal the leopard had hidden nearby. The forest was giving us clues, and the excitement of what lay ahead kept us on edge.
Birds often ride on deer as part of a mutualistic relationship. The birds benefit by feeding on insects, parasites, and ticks found on the deer’s body, while the deer gain relief from these pests.
I was focused on capturing a bird when a sudden noise caught my attention. It had just rained, and the forest was alive, fresh, and glistening. Turning toward the sound, I saw two deer locked in a fierce battle, their antlers tightly entwined. One deer stood out, its lighter coat gleaming in the soft light, while the other, darker and more shadowed, blended into the surroundings. In that moment, it felt like nature itself was showing me a battle of contrasts
As we drove through the jungle, a Grey Langur suddenly appeared and sat right in the middle of the track. It seemed lost in deep thought, completely still. For a moment, it felt like time had slowed down, as if the entire jungle had paused to observe this curious traveler.
Grey Langur
Tracking a leopard in the vast forest was no easy task. While its prints and the smell of hidden food gave us initial clues, it was the gray langurs that became our true guides. These sharp-eyed creatures raised loud alarm calls, warning the forest whenever the leopard was on the move.
We decided to follow one particular langur, trusting its instincts to lead us closer to our target. Sure enough, it guided us straight to where the leopard was moving. This langur wasn’t just another animal, it played a key role in this thrilling adventure, proving how interconnected the forest truly is.
At times, I can't help but wonder what goes on in their minds.
Nature’s Fine Art
Captured in Yala National Park, this moment unfolded as we sat in our jeep, watching from a distance. The birds sat still, perfectly framed in their natural surroundings.
What made this scene truly unique was the plain white sky in the background. It wasn’t an edit, it was simply how the sky appeared that day.
Changeable Hawk Eagle
Perched far on a tree, the Hawk Eagle stood perfectly framed by the natural openings between the branches. Its piercing gaze locked straight onto us, creating an unforgettable moment.
What made the scene truly magical was the soft light filtering through the trees behind it, illuminating the hollow space and adding a surreal glow to the setting.
Blue Tailed Bee-Eater
Known for its striking green body, blue tail, and golden-brown throat, this bird is a true spectacle in flight. True to its name, it primarily feeds on bees, wasps, and other flying insects, catching them mid-air with remarkable precision. The Blue-tailed Bee-eater is often seen perched on branches or wires, scanning for prey before launching into its acrobatic hunt.
After a quick meal near a dam, I decided to take a short walk around the area. That’s when I spotted a couple of langurs playing in the distance. Thankfully, I hadn’t left my camera in the jeep.
Birds ride buffaloes in water primarily for practical benefits. As buffaloes move through the water, they disturb insects, making it easier for birds to catch them. Additionally, birds often feed on ticks, parasites, and other small pests found on the buffalo’s skin, providing a form of natural pest control.
Our last stop in the jungle was a moment to pause, relax, and soak in the beauty of nature before setting out again in search of the elusive big cat. This was our final chance, as the trip was nearing its end. After spending over 16 hours in the forest, we were determined to try our luck one last time, holding on to the hope that the leopard would grace us with its presence.
Weheragala Reservoir
These trees rise dramatically from the waters of the Weheragala Reservoir, a man-made creation within Yala National Park. Built to aid irrigation and water management in the region, the reservoir transformed the landscape in unexpected ways.
The submerged trees, remnants of the land before the flooding during construction, now form a striking and unique part of the scenery. They stand as a testament to the delicate balance between human development and nature’s resilience,
Leopard
Tracking it from footprints to the faint scent of hidden prey, our journey took an unexpected turn when a grey langur came to our aid, leading us straight to the elusive leopard. It wasn’t long before the leopard disappeared back into the bush. Determined not to lose sight, we rushed our jeep to the other side, predicting its path.
When we spotted it again, my eye was glued to the viewfinder, tracking and capturing each step. Darkness crept in quickly, and I had to push my ISO to a staggering 51,000. It wasn’t until I lifted my eye from the viewfinder that I realized how pitch dark it had become, so dark that the leopard was invisible to the naked eye.
By then, the big cat had vanished into the dense forest, leaving us with an unforgettable memory to mark the end of our adventure.
Unlike other leopard species, Sri Lankan leopards are less shy, making them more visible, especially in places like Yala National Park.
A fascinating fact about these leopards is their adaptability, they hunt both on the ground and in trees, using stealth and power to ambush prey. They are also known to drag their kills up into trees to protect them from scavengers. Unfortunately, they face significant threats, with fewer than 1,000 individuals remaining in the wild, primarily due to deforestation and human-wildlife conflict. This makes the Sri Lankan leopard a symbol of both the island's biodiversity and the urgent need for conservation.
After an incredible journey through the forest, our time in Sri Lanka was coming to an end, and the next day morning we headed back to Dubai. This trip marked my second adventure as a photographer, and I had the opportunity to capture the elusive leopard's gaze.
What made this journey even more unique was the fact that lectures outside the classroom have their own charm. And in my case, they were nothing short of fascinating, especially with my professor, Sivprasad Nandakumar, alongside me. I think I might be the only one in my batch who has had a lecture in a forest!
We landed in Dubai at midnight, marking the official end of our Sri Lanka adventure in Yala National Park, but the adventure was still on. The very next morning, we decided to head out to Al Qudra Lakes!
29 Dec - 1 Nov 2024